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Sunshine, Sheep, and Spectacular Cliffs: Our Ireland Road Trip

  • Writer: Jonathan Forstall
    Jonathan Forstall
  • Jul 27
  • 8 min read

Updated: Aug 10

Setting Off in Dublin – The Adventure Begins


We started our Irish road trip on a bright May morning in Dublin, picking up a cozy campervan that would be our home for the next ten days. The plan was ambitious: a full loop around the island, from Dublin down to Cork and Kerry, up the west coast to Clare and Mayo, into rugged Donegal, across to Northern Ireland, and back to Dublin. With rare sunshine forecast for days (a streak of luck almost unheard of in Ireland), we couldn’t wait to hit the road. The locals we met as we stocked up on supplies were immediately welcoming, offering tips and well-wishes – a warmth that would follow us throughout our journey. Little did we know this trip would turn into one of our most memorable adventures, blending stunning scenery with personal moments of humor and discovery.


Through Cork and Kerry: Castles, Coasts, and Campervan Mornings


Our first leg took us from Dublin to Cork, a drive filled with rolling green pastures and occasional castle ruins by the roadside. In Cork, we wandered the historic streets and ended the day at a small pub where live music and friendly banter made us feel like regulars. Ireland truly has some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. That evening, over pints of stout and hearty Irish stew, we chatted with locals who eagerly recommended their favorite hidden gems along our route.


The next morning began a routine that quickly became our campervan life hack: I would rise with the sun, quietly start the engine, and begin the drive to our next destination while my wife slept snugly in the back. By the time she woke up, we’d have arrived somewhere beautiful, and I’d have the kettle boiling for tea and a simple breakfast ready. There’s nothing quite like cooking eggs and bacon in a camper kitchen with a view of misty mountains or the ocean. This strategy meant we beat the midday crowds at popular spots and enjoyed calm, empty roads in the early hours.


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Driving into County Kerry, we were treated to some of Ireland’s most spectacular landscapes. We embarked on the famous Ring of Kerry loop, a 214-kilometer circuit of coastal mountains, lakes, and seaside villages. The road twisted past sparkling lakes and through lush valleys, with every turn revealing a new postcard-perfect scene. We detoured out to the Dingle Peninsula for the Slea Head Drive, a shorter loop that packs in an incredible amount of scenery. One moment we were overlooking the Blasket Islands in the Atlantic, and the next we were passing green hills dotted with sheep and ancient stone huts. Needless to say, we stopped frequently for photos – a rainbow here, a roadside waterfall there – as Kerry’s magic unfolded around us. By the time we rolled into a camper site near Killarney that evening, we were happily exhausted. Over a simple dinner, we marveled at how much beauty we’d seen in just a couple of days, and we hadn’t even reached the cliffs and islands to come.


Chasing the Sunset at the Cliffs of Moher


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Continuing north along the Wild Atlantic Way, we aimed for County Clare and its crown jewel: the Cliffs of Moher. Rather than arriving at peak midday hours, we timed our visit for the evening. It paid off. Earlier, the clifftop paths bustled with tour buses and selfie-sticks, but we lingered until nearly 10 pm, long after the visitor center had closed and the last light was fading. Watching the sun sink into the Atlantic from these famous cliffs was pure magic. The sky burned orange and pink, and the usually busy viewing platform fell silent – it was just my wife and me perched above the 200-meter drops, listening to waves crash far below. We snapped several hundred photos of the gorgeous sunset colors dancing on the water and flew the drone as the mist from the waves covered the camera lens. Moments like this felt almost unreal, and we knew staying late had been the right call. As we walked back to our camper in the twilight, hand in hand, we realized we had experienced the Cliffs of Moher at their most peaceful – a private show put on by Mother Nature.


Achill Island Adventures – Beaches, Cliffs, and a Sheep Showdown


The next day’s drive took us through County Mayo to Achill Island, a place that hadn’t originally been on our must-see list but ended up stealing our hearts. A bridge connects Achill to the mainland, and as we crossed over, we felt like we’d entered a wild paradise at the edge of the world. Achill Island is a remote, rugged land of peat bogs and dramatic sea cliffs – and it’s famous for its freely roaming sheep that seem to own the roads and hillsides.

We set up camp at Keel Camping Park, which turned out to be the best campsite of our trip. Nestled right by a long sand beach and dunes, with mountains looming behind, it offered amazing views and top-notch amenities. Keel was a perfect base – everything on the island was within easy reach, from cozy pubs to hiking trails.


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Eager to stretch our legs, we decided to hike up one of Achill’s steep hills overlooking the Atlantic. Halfway up, as we rounded a bend on a narrow path with a sheer drop to one side, we suddenly encountered a gang of sheep blocking our way. They stared at us nonchalantly, chewing grass, utterly convinced they owned the mountain (to be fair, they probably do). It turned into a comical standoff on the side of the cliff – a dozen woolly bystanders versus two astonished hikers. I cautiously raised my camera to snap a photo of the scene, only to realize there was a very steep plunge just a few steps to my right, between me and these obstinate sheep. For a few minutes, none of us – human or sheep – dared to move. Finally, with a bit of gentle shooing and coaxing (and me making what I hoped were authoritative shepherd sounds), the fluffy troupe decided to trot past us, inches from the cliff edge, and let us by. We exhaled and continued up to the summit, where we were rewarded with jaw-dropping views of Achill’s turquoise bays and soaring cliffs. Looking down, we could even spot our tiny camper by Keel Beach, a reminder of how far we’d climbed.


Fog on the Wild Cliffs of Slieve League – Unfinished Business


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Bidding Achill farewell, we drove further north into County Donegal. This region felt wonderfully off the beaten path – the roads narrowed, the accents grew thicker, and the scenery was as dramatic as ever. Our destination was Slieve League (Sliabh Liag), known for towering sea cliffs that many say are even higher than the Cliffs of Moher.

We were excited to see this less-touristy natural wonder and even attempt the infamous “One Man’s Pass” – a narrow ridge trail atop the cliffs, recommended only on the calmest of days. However, the fickle Irish weather finally caught up with us here. As we parked and started our hike, a thick Atlantic fog rolled in, slowly cloaking the cliffs in white. Soon, we were essentially hiking in a cloud – visibility dropped to just a few meters. At the first high viewpoint, we could sense a vast void beyond the fence where the ocean should be, but all we saw was blank mist. A local hiker shook his head and advised us that One Man’s Pass would be far too dangerous today; on a clear day it’s a knife-edge path above the waves, but in fog it’s a big nope for anyone who values their life. Disappointed, we heeded the warning and abandoned our plan for that daring trek. Even partially obscured, Slieve League felt massive and mystical. We made a pact then and there: we must return to Slieve League again, to conquer One Man’s Pass under clear skies.


Northern Ireland: Giant’s Causeway and the Road Back to Dublin


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Crossing into Northern Ireland, we aimed for one of the most unique natural sites in the world: the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim. The weather cleared up for us, and we arrived to a bright afternoon perfect for exploring this otherworldly coastal formation. According to geology, the Giant’s Causeway is an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns formed by an ancient volcanic eruption – but according to Irish legend, it was built by the giant Finn McCool so he could walk to Scotland and duel a rival giant! Standing there, it was easy to feel the magic of the place. The basalt columns form step-like platforms at various heights; some are low and disappear into the sea, others tower like organ pipes. We hopped from stone to stone, marveling at the strange symmetry of the hexagonal shapes and imagining giants striding across them. With fewer visitors in the late afternoon, parts of the causeway felt almost private. We sat on one “bench” of rock and listened to the ocean, reflecting on how diverse Ireland’s landscapes had been – from mountains and cliffs to beaches and now these volcanic rocks.


The Great Campsite Caper: A Rookie Mistake and a Smooth Recovery


Of course, no great road trip is complete without at least one classic travel blunder. On our last night in the campervan, I realized — just a little too late — that I had accidentally booked the campsite for the wrong night. We pulled up to a gated lot, the front office was already closed, and our reservation... didn’t exist. Cue panic. With nowhere else to go, I did what any desperate-yet-determined traveler would do: I started working the charm.

Spotting a friendly-looking fellow camper across the lot, I walked over and explained our situation — full honesty, no embellishment. Luckily, he took pity on us (or maybe just admired the hustle) and whispered the gate access code like he was passing classified intel. Thanks to this random hero, we were able to park the van, get some sleep, and enjoy one last night under the Irish stars. We kept a low profile and slipped out early the next morning — no harm, no foul.


So, pro tip: always double-check your campsite dates, but if you mess it up… maybe pack a little extra charm, just in case.


Final Thoughts and Tips for Future Travelers


Ten days, roughly 1,500 kilometers, countless laughs, and one unforgettable road trip later, we returned our trusty campervan in Dublin. We were sun-kissed (yes, in Ireland!), camera filled with incredible photos, and hearts filled with stories. Traveling by campervan turned out to be the perfect way to explore Ireland – it gave us the freedom to roam at our own pace and wake up to a new view each day.


If you’re considering a similar trip, here are a few personal takeaways:

  • Plan your route and book campsites in advance: Especially in summer, popular campgrounds can fill up. We loved staying at well-equipped sites – Keel Camping on Achill Island was our favorite, with stunning beach views and great facilities.

  • Embrace the early starts: Driving at dawn was a game-changer for us. You’ll enjoy empty roads and get prime parking at big attractions.

  • Eat at the pubs (and try the fish & chips): In many small towns, pubs are the heart of the community – and often your best (or only) dining option. We didn’t find a ton of variety in some rural areas, but the quality was great.

  • Don’t rush – savor the scenic drives: Some of our favorite moments were on the road itself. The Ring of Kerry and Slea Head Drive were standouts. Take your time and enjoy the journey.

  • Hit the highlights, but seek out hidden gems: The Cliffs of Moher and Giant’s Causeway are must-sees, yet the quieter spots like Slieve League and Achill Island left a deep impression.


In the end, our 10-day Ireland road trip felt both deeply personal and wonderfully epic. We laughed ourselves silly during a sheep showdown on a cliff, shared silent awe watching golden sunsets, and learned that Irish weather can surprise you in the best and worst ways. Through it all, the Irish people’s warmth made us feel at home wherever we parked for the night. If you’re dreaming of exploring Ireland, we can’t recommend the campervan way enough – it turned our vacation into a rolling adventure and a series of cherished moments. And as we already told each other while boarding the plane home, this journey was just an introduction. Ireland, we’ll be back (we have a certain foggy cliff hike to complete, after all) – and until next time, slán go fóill (goodbye for now)!


 
 
 

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